Arizona is known for its rich western culture and the evidence of its Native American history going back thousands of years, and nowhere is there a better example of that culture and the history behind it than at Rock Art Ranch south of Joseph City.
A drive down the long dirt road to the ranch begins the immersion into the life of a cowboy. As you arrive at the ranch and kick off the dust of the road, three cowboys wave from their seats on a shaded porch as they try to ward off the heat of the day. One of them, Brantley Baird, is the owner and operator of Rock Art Ranch, a ranch that’s been in his family since 1945 and prior to that was part of the Hashknife Cattle Company ranch.
Although still a working cattle ranch, for the past 15 years Baird has welcomed visitors from all over the globe to see the rich treasures that it has to offer.
As Baird talks about his ranch, his cowboy hat is pushed back on his head and two dogs wind their way around his cowboy boots. His easy-going manner instantly welcomes anyone who may feel like they’ve ventured a little too far off of a familiar path.
He explained that visitors come to the ranch on a daily basis, even through the winter. While the ranch has a lot to offer, the first stop at the ranch’s private museum is enough to make the trip worthwhile. An extensive collection of Native American pottery from the Archaic period extending as far back in history as 13,000 years has been found just on the Baird property. The finds there have been so rich that the University of Arizona sends archeological students to the ranch each summer to excavate kivas and pit houses found on the land to unearth more of its ancient history. “We’d just be riding around on horses and find whole pots that the wind and rain had exposed, they’re all over here,” said Baird when asked about the numerous pots on display.
In addition to the pottery, finds have included arrowhead and spearhead projectile points, grinding stones, tools and a plethora of other items that help to determine when and how the numerous clans survived on the high desert.
The ancient history of the land easily co-exists with the not-so-distant past at Rock Art Ranch. The museum holds many tools of the trade for early pioneers to the area, as well as wagons, farm equipment and what Baird believes to be the last remaining bunkhouse of the Hashknife Outfit, the wild and outlaw Texas cowboys who ran cattle for the Aztec Land & Cattle Company in the late 1800s. “The cowboys only stayed in the bunkhouses one month out of the year. The rest of the year they lived on the land with a covered chuck wagon,” he explained, while showing the simple furnishings that include a rope bed and a furnace.
The rich history on display is only part of what the ranch has to offer. Heading away from the ranch house and driving out onto the property leads to even more impressive sights, including the pueblos discovered on the land where the ancient Native Americans dwelled. The short drive ends at a Navajo hogan and sweat lodge located in a fenced area, along with a pit house.
“The pit house has been where it is for hundreds of years, but the hogan isn’t that old,” explained Baird, adding that the sweat lodge was a recent addition. “We had a young Navajo man come and build that a short while back. It ties in well with what’s here and adds to what the visitors have to see.”
Even with all these impressive sights the best is left for last as the road continues on to Chevelon Canyon and the thousands of petroglyphs that line the canyon walls. “Archeologist Dr. Don Weaver told me this was the best petroglyph site in the world, with some of these going back to 7,500 to 6,000 B.C. It’s crazy, and I don’t know, it don’t sound right to me, but that’s what he said,” said Baird.
It’s estimated that more than 3,000 petroglyphs line the walls of the canyon, but as to their meaning, Baird says little is known. “Everyone has an opinion, but no one knows for sure. There have been so many clans that have lived here with the different beliefs and cultures that it would be all but impossible to say with certainty,” he explained.
What adds to the beauty of the petroglyphs is their setting. The walls where the petroglyphs are carved line the canyon like an ancient gallery accented with brilliant green plants, a waterway and down around a bend, what Baird calls “the swimming hole.”
The trip to the canyon is arranged for a leisurely, self-paced tour of the petroglyphs, without any need to rush or keep up with others. The tranquility of the water and the breeze through the canyon make it easy to imagine the native people coming and going, gathering water, and reflecting on the land and its beauty.
Baird said that he often tells people, “If you’re not into cowboys, Indians or the Old West, don’t bother coming, because that’s all this is about.” From the perspective of a true cowboy that may be true, but in reality, Rock Art Ranch is worth the visit regardless of whether those are your interests. It’s a place where history co-exists with the present with seamless effort, providing a clearer understanding of the people who once lived there.
For more information on the ranch or to schedule a visit, call (928) 288-3260.
